Chateau des Quarts Pouilly-Fuisse Premier Cru Aux Quarts 2022

Drink it now or cellar for up to 15 years. Serve chilled. This fabulous Pouilly-Fuisse is the masterpiece of a collaboration between Burgundian legends Olivier Merlin and Dominique Lafon who united in 2012 after Merlin acquired a unique monopole here. The 2.23 hectare Clos de Quarts is a rather special walled vineyard that features Chardonnay vines planted back in 1917. Conditions here are perfect for top-level winemaking, including an east-facing aspect and clay soils rich in limestone. Aux Quarts is the magnificent expression of this historic plot which was awarded Premier Cru status in 2020. Merlin and Lafon press the whole clusters of grapes and use native yeasts to ferment in used oak to highlight the character of the fruit and terroir. The young wine then ages for at least 18 months in the barrel and is bottled with limited filtration and no fining. The result is one of the finest Pouilly-Fuisse currently on the market, combining refreshing elegance and subtle hints of minerality with ample fruit and a rich, full body. Succulent stone fruit and oaky hints dominate on the nose, followed by citrus and subtle spiced notes on the long finish. This wine would do well if cellared for a few more years, although it’s also ideal for enjoying now alongside richer seafood, fish, or chicken dishes.

Price: £42.35 from 8wines UK